“The seven-year itch” – or the theory that every relationship is at risk after seven years – does not seem to have affected Alessandro Michele, creative mind of Gucci since 2015. The “curious” anniversary saw the return of the Maison in the Milanese calendar with an event that attracted the attention of the international press. And – now equally fundamental – of the social universe.
Four days before the show (almost an understatement to talk about a parade when it comes to Michele), Gucci had published a promotional video of its “Love Parade” introducing the most representative faces of the Maison. A party, with a Jared Leto unleashed, observed by the inquisitive gaze of Lee Jung-jae (absolute protagonist of Squid Game, winner of the SAG Awards in a Gucci suit). The two artists then found themselves in Milan, in the front row, between mirrors and colored lights. Together with them Rihanna – with the baby bump in plain sight – and an ever-increasing number of show business personalities.
Dozens of familiar faces reflected in hundreds of mirrors in a real but “suffocating” perspective. To describe this dichotomy is Alessandro Michele, in a note for the press. «I have always been refractory to the myth of the exact vision which inevitably ends up freezing the imaginative power of the world. For this reason I wanted to recover another quality of the mirror. That is to construct aberrations, enchanting ghosts ».
The collection for next autumn-winter – called “Exquisite” from the surrealist board game Cadavre Exquis – aims to reveal the “magic” behind the creation of a dress, including multiplications, replacements, overturns, enlargements, reductions, dilatation and bottlenecks of the forms. «The dress is the magic mirror par excellence capable of reincarnating our presence in the world» said Michele. «The dress has in fact the ability to reflect our image in an expanded and transfigured dimension, it means crossing a transformed threshold in which we become something else».
Gender fluidity is at the center of the conversation with the dark blue double-breasted jacket that opens the show, but also the velvet tuxedos with crystal, plaid and sequin details. Each garment is the bearer of the sartorial excellence of the brand, capable of always remaining current, as in the collaboration with Adidas, announced during the show.
The retro-chic aesthetic of Michele marries the sportswear giant in an eclectic vortex, capable of transporting us to a new world (the Metaverse, perhaps?) and putting us face to face with an idea of absolute freedom.
It is interesting to note how two brands with such different histories like Gucci and Adidas can appear complementary. Just look at their logos, both made of stripes (Gucci has two, red and green, while Adidas has three, white), but also the symbol of the clover, to a careful eye, appears similar to the iconic bee. Opposites but complementary, one the distorted reflection of the other.